Dermo-cosmetics R&D
Our ambition: leverage therapeutic breakthroughs in dermatology to develop innovative dermo-cosmetic products for the benefit of patients, consumers, and the medical community.
Our research priorities
Our dermo-cosmetics research and development is based on leading-edge scientific expertise. It leverages the latest progress in dermatology as well as our in-depth knowledge of skin care and the main biological networks and targets involved in conditions and disorders affecting the skin, hair and oral health, in order to design innovative dermo-cosmetic products tailored to the skin’s needs.
We focus our research on seven major dermatological issues:
- Sun protection
- Acne-prone skin
- Skin aging
- Repair of the epidermis
- Atopic dermatitis
- Hair loss
- Severe dandruff
- + 600 projects considered by our R&D teams every year
- ~ 700 assessment studies carried out every year
- ~ 1200 patents in force
- ~ 100 scientific publications per year in journals and presented at national and international conferences
- + 70 active ingredients developed and incorporated into our products, 70% of which are sourced from the plant world
Our scientific know-how
In our research centers, our highly qualified experts channel their energy into dermo-cosmetic innovation, applying rigorous standards to our product development:
- They study disorders affecting the skin, hair and oral health.
- They identify new biological targets.
- They design and develop active ingredients that boost the efficacy of our products.
- They fine-tune leading-edge technologies to measure the performance of our active ingredients and products more accurately.
- They innovate and design exceptional formulas.
- Drawing on their unique clinical know-how, they assess our active ingredients and dermo-cosmetic products.
Every single care product we produce is designed holistically, with exactly the right dose of carefully selected ingredients, to guarantee optimum performance.
All our care products undergo a clinical assessment process including rigorous, demanding tests that guarantee their tolerance and efficacy.
Interactome, a systemic view of skin biology
Our Interactome Expertise research program, inspired by the medical world, is a multiomics approach that allows us to study all biological interactions of the skin and scalp as well as the mechanisms underlying dysfunction.
This program is a springboard for innovative dermo-cosmetic products and active ingredients that deliver a targeted, effective response to dermatological needs.
Our active ingredients, boosting efficacy
Our active ingredients are rigorously selected and developed for their performance and efficacy, regardless of their initial purpose.
Our pharmaceutical expertise gives us a unique opportunity to assess the potential of pharmaceutical active ingredients, and use them as cosmetic ingredients.
Drawing on our long-standing know-how in the development of plant-based active ingredients, we also produce our own active ingredients sourced from the plant world.
And by leveraging our expertise in the field of biotechnology, we offer innovative active ingredients derived from plant cell culture.
Distinctive active ingredients
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In 2020, Laboratoires Pierre Fabre launched TriAsorB™, a sun filter resulting from 20 years of research. It has a uniquely effective ability to absorb a portion of the solar spectrum which includes UVA/UVB rays as well as high-energy visible blue light.
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Unique microflora resulting from our research into the composition of Avène Thermal Spring Water. Our researchers turned it into an active ingredient with outstanding soothing properties to cope with itching caused by dry skin. It became the star ingredient of the XéraCalm A.D. product range.
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Powerfully soothing active ingredient. It took over 10 years of research to develop an innovative process to derive this biotech ingredient from plant cell culture.
Our innovation centers
Based at five different innovation centers, our researchers develop new dermo-cosmetic solutions that take into consideration cultural specificities and regulatory constraints in each region. Our innovation centers in China and Brazil focus on far-reaching studies into the specific hair and skin types found in Asia and South America respectively.
- 400 Dermo-Cosmetics & Personal Care R&D employees
- 5 research centers (three in France and two abroad)
- 63 million euros channeled into Dermo-Cosmetics & Personal Care R&D in 2025, the equivalent of 3.6% of revenue
Langlade - Oncopole (Toulouse, south-west France)
raw materials & sourcing units, pharmacology, regulatory affairs, product safety, product formulation development, quality assurance
Hôtel-Dieu (Toulouse, south-west France)
Skin, hair and oral care research and clinical studies unit
Soual (south-west France)
Pilot and scaling facility
Brazil Innovation Center (Rio de Janeiro, Brazil)
Design and development of products tailored to Brazilian skin and hair types
Asia Innovation Center (Shanghai, China)
Design and development of products tailored to Asian skin and hair types
Our scientific partners
Our research benefits from partnerships and close cooperation with academic partners and many different healthcare professionals.
